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The Nuts & Bolts For Painless Plans For Mth Locomotives

MTH locomotives

Vintage MTH Model Trains - Collector Information | Collectors Weekly

Wolf started M.T.H., which stands for Mikes Train House and is sometimes abbreviated as MTH, in 1980 when he was just 20. In the beginning, Wolf ran M.T.H, as a mail-order business out of his parents home, but he was soon sharing a building with Williams in Columbia, Maryland. Like Williams, Wolf specialized in model trains from the hobbys golden age. The goal for both was accuracy and detail superseding anything that had come before. While M.T.H. briefly produced brass trains for Lionel in the late 1980s, today it is known for its own lines. Just before we all research into greater depth, look over this resource on the O scale trains, electric train sets on display; truth be told, there is certainly some seriously fantastic O scale trains info available as you can plainly see.Trains in its Premier line run on O gauge tracks at 1:48 scale. Metal details are made out of real metal, and models such as the Santa Fe Blue Goose have lights and smoke. RailKing trains (sometime spelled as Rail King) also run on O gauge tracks at 1:48 scale, but the locomotives, passengers cars, gondolas, hoppers, and tenders are less detailed and shorter, which gives them a tighter turning radius. M.T.H.

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BLI vs Precison Craft Models vs MTH Electric Trains - Model Railroader Magazine - Model Railroading, Model Trains, Reviews, Track Plans, and Forums

These cars have full-width working diaphragms, so the natural tendency would be to have them if not actually touching, at least within scale closeness (your passengers shouldn't be leaping from car to car, lol). However, adjusting the couplers to bring the cars to scale closeness somehow takes their minimum radius from 22" suddenly to 48", which makes them useless for most model railroads (my minimum radius is 36") Since the coupler pockets are not like the BLI or Walthers passenger cars, it seems that the only way I'm going to get any kind of scale closeness that will work on my radius is to convert all of the cars to Kadee long-shank couplers and pockets. That seems rather ridiculous, considering the money I spent on these cars to begin with. I'm thinking that I really should have waited for the BLI sets, which I understand are much better designed for coupler closeness. When studying http://www.purevolume.com/toyelectrictrainsw3j/posts/12865060/href including similar model trains sites, many of us discovered a great deal more regarding the MTH trains subject.Tom 347 posts Posted by PRR8259 on Sunday, April 17, 2016 11:12 AM I tried some BLI California Zephyr passenger cars and was not happy with them. The ones I had did indeed have tracking issues. There wasalso excessive frictiondrag from the metal rollers (forthe lights)that caused derailments on 26" radius curves which are fine with other makes of full length passenger equipment. I did not like the BLI cars and found that MTH's Powhatan Arrow passenger cars were much better in actual operation on my layout, with better lighting. Of the full length passenger cars available on the market, Iperceive the other guys' cars are better. Once I threw away Rapido's "kadee clone" coupler, and replaced them with real Kadee long shank couplers, the Rapido cars have performed superbly well--the best of any manufacturer--on my layout. Walthers/Proto 2000 passenger cars vary. Most perform very well. A few of the heavyweights have bad trucks/axles, and can have consequent derailment issues--but most are good. John 521 posts Posted by hdtvnut on Monday, April 25, 2016 7:02 AM I have the Daylight, N&W, Empire Stateand NH cars fromMTH,as well as aboutthree hundredothersfrom all the other guys. I agree that the signboards on the NYC cars are attached with poor glue, but that's an easy fix. The couplers on my Daylight cars are speced for 42" radii or more, but wereOK for my 36". FWIW, I find MTH carsclosest to RTR, with good couplers and free-rolling wheels; I also like the included lighting and interiors, but have chosen both to dim the lights and add black interior paint to parts of the observation cars. Some sets use proto floor plans, but some are generic sets. Half my cars are Walthers. I don't thinkthey offerenough for the money, making us buy add-on lighting which doesn't include OB car tailsign and markers, which I've added for some sets. And they are too hard to get apart. My Walthers heavyweights rolled so poorly (metal axles in metal sideframes) that having tried working on the trucks without much luck, I changedto Branchline truck kits. The early Rapidos had warped floors, but the O-B cars are nice.

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